I just tried it again on Android 9 (Pie), and as you say, it's definitely crappier if you're using AM/PM (my local settings have it on 24 hour time display), since there's an extra tap required for AM/PM and one could miss it and set an alarm for 6 PM instead of 6 AM. This may be more intuitive to someone used to a 12 hour locale.
That being said, in the alarm clock dialog, if you add a new alarm, there's a button that allows the user to type in the time using a keyboard (there's a keyboard icon to the bottom left), the first tap allows you to select the hour (shows both 0-12 and 13-23 if the locale is set to 24 hour clock), another tap will select the minute. If you're on 12 hour clock, you may need to change between AM/PM by tapping it. Tapping either the minute or the hour will allow changing that value.
Other than having the 5 minute snap on tap (as TFA points out, who really wants an alarm at 6:01 or 5:59?), it seems as if it allows all possible interactions, where the user can pick whatever input modality they want.