I really don't see what is strange or supposedly immoral about it.
Newspapers have run articles covering specific restaurants or foods since time immemorial, since it is informative to the readers.
https://www.nytimes.com/2014/04/23/dining/against-the-grain....
https://www.theguardian.com/food/2018/dec/09/christmas-spiri...
There’s literally nothing strange about journalism that reviews and profiles different kinds of products, from restaurant reviews to album or movie reviews or a blog with fashion tips.
That’s not the same thing as advertising, and the difference isn’t particularly confusing.
And it is indeed not a review: a review gives you pros and cons and so on with a neutral outlook and without fluff.
The article is quite sneaky and in that it's advertising.
The word advertising has a meaning.
Just look at the side bar: Strange Brews offers a taste of exceptional, exclusive beers from all over the globe. Check back each week in December to discover new brew.
I don’t think you can read that and expect it to be anything other than what it is.
It'd be weird if a travel, culture and food publication couldn't do an article on Casu Marzu or Champagne so I don't see why this is any different.