I believe it's water cooled but still looks to be using traditional heater cartridges.
I'd once considered heating the surface to which you are bonding with a laser, just ahead of the extruder, so you weld hot surface to hot surface, not hot surface to cold surface. That's why filament type 3D printers make such weak joints between layers.
I'm guessing that absurd power requirement is for the 85C heated enclosure variant, otherwise I'm no idea where the 60amps are going.
I remember reading about a slicer with an option to use the hotend just as a heat source that traced the previous layer to smooth/blend it. Using a laser may be a good method of improving the surface finish as well.
You might also need to be able to tilt the laser up/down to vary the distance from the nozzle.
It should be pretty easy from there to have the computer keep it pointed at wherever the nozzle is going next.