"nothing wants to inspect only some bits of a message and then forward it on unchanged"
In my experience it is extremely useful to partially parse a protobuf, or to not parse it at all and simply modify it by appending to it. Also useful is the ability to define a message type that is isomorphic on the wire with a different type, but is much cheaper to parse (example: a deeply nested structure where all of the fields of interest are defined at the top level).
Nobody even within Google will argue that no mistakes have been made with proto. Proto3 is generally acknowledged to have been a big mistake and it doesn't have a lot of traction within Google. Map and OneOf are both basically antagonistic to high performance application code, and people avoid those for that reason. But the author's arguments are pretty weak and his dismissal of Google itself as an existence proof is insufficiently supported.