fastmail.com - I used gmail since the good old days when I bought an invite on ebay. Yesterday, I switched to fastmail with my own domain. I'm not looking back.
You are aware they're an Australian company that will be forced to provide Oz government access to your account?
I wrote the comment especially in the light of people tripping across parent's recommendation. (There are lots of other threads here on HN indicating how people wish to migrate from gmail to something else, due to other Google/Alphabet Inc issues.)
"Where requests for access are issued legally, we comply." [0]
[0] https://fastmail.blog/2018/09/10/access-and-assistance-bill/