Gandi is good, I think the site upgrade is done now so there won't be much clunkiness for new domains. They're more expensive than most, but I've had no problems. I only use their DNS though, I can't comment on mail, mail forwarding or hosting.
Gandi are nice to you until you move your domain somewhere else, at which point they will immediately drop the privacy on your whois record until their version expires, as a nice parting gift. I complained to their support when that happened and they basically lied to my face, pretending to see only the new registrar's whois. Caveat emptor.
Ah shit. Thanks for the heads up.
I've had the opposite experience with them. Things not working correctly, and a beyond useless support, who can only be contacted by email and often takes 24-48 hours to respond to even simply queries. I would stay away from them.
It's sad domains are stupidly expensive. They don't need $10+/year to maintain a domain. The sad reality when such an infrastructure is governed by a tree structure with no one to override.