My experience is:

AMP version: not loading, I assumed due to blocked JS, but I just went back to check, and oh it finally loaded.. so maybe it eventually falls back with my first-party-only JS policy.

Non-AMP version: immediate load, perfectly readable, refreshed with no JS (not even first-party) and it's imperceptibly fast. (Reloaded the AMP version again with no JS just to check, and of course - without the JS to say: Hey, after a timeout, if AMP JS hasn't loaded, fall back on standard - it doesn't load at all. Great.)

Edit: actually, it did, eventually (not sure how that works then) but with no images and full-width text. I'll take AMPless any day.