https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3637656/ "Too little, too late or too much, too early? Differential hemodynamics of response inhibition in high and low sensation seekers"
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3150539/ "Neural Correlates of Emotional Reactivity in Sensation Seeking"
I wonder how climbers overcome this?
(Personal experience, and I'm shit, so pinch of salt.)
The difference with what you describe is that you have a time pressure - you're being passively carried into the state where you're afraid and reactions etc come in real time.
Specifically when doing free solo stuff - I have time to "override" my responses if that makes sense? It takes conscious effort but I am moving at my own pace, I can rest, take a deep breath, etc.
The world is big, and climbing is a very small part of it. The most famous climber (to other climbers) is just another guy in the supermarket line if you don’t follow climbing.
I’ve climbed a long time and have a handful of friends who I had “heard of” before meeting them. I admit it was strange at first but they always turn out to be real people with normal boring lives. I imagine its pretty tough making friends if you’re in that weird class of “super famous in this tiny niche” that climbers (and computer programmers) can find themselves in.
So I guess don’t be surprised to find that somebody here knows another rock climber. There aren’t really all that many of us!
I won't speak for anyone else, but in my experience: if you hang out with truly world-class climbers, occasionally getting through a 5.12 doesn't feel impressive at all. Nobody's trying to make you feel worse, of course, but watching someone effortlessly nail something I sweated and struggled through permanently puts my opinion of myself in a strongly-caveated place. "Elite amateur" is a label that's very difficult to self-apply because you see the people who are in the tier(s) above you and it's impossible to not make the comparison. It was pretty motivating for a while for me but I think of myself as "just okay" (even at my best) at climbing because I know how high the ceiling is.
> I won't speak for anyone else, but in my experience: if you hang out with
> truly world-class climbers, occasionally getting through a 5.12 doesn't feel
> impressive at all
Yes, it's true that if you hang out with world-class climbers, 5.12 looks like a warm-up.But it's also true that if you poll amateur climbers, being able to consistently red-point 5.12 is rare. being able to consistently on-sight 5.12 is rarer still. I think we can say that consistently climbing 5.12 is not world-class, but it is statistically rare amongst amateurs.
Both statements are compatible. We can quibble about whether "elite" means top 1%, top .1%, top .01%, &c. But in general, 5.12 is above the gym or crag duffer level, even regular gym or crag duffers.
Occasionally getting through a 5.12 isn't consistently climbing 5.12, mind you. IMO, the only ratings that count are the grades we can consistently red-point, flash, or on-sight. I can say whatever I like about this one Red Gorge 5.12c that had a couple of dynos, but I'm tall and I used to like to dyno. The truth is that the best I ever climbed was to consistently red-point 5.11 outside, with a few flashes and on-sights along the way.
Likewise, I think I have two V5s under my belt, but I absolutely never could count on sending even a V3 in one or two tries, so I really think that I climbed about V2 consistently outside, with bunches of V3s that I projected, with the memories of a few V4s and those two V5s to sustain me though my twilight years.
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All that being said, advances in training methods and the increasing popularity of difficulty climbing and bouldering as children's sports is rapidly raising the standard of excellence.
Starting young makes as much of a difference in climbing as it does in every other sport. There's nothing quite like hitting your peak physical prowess years with a half-decade or even decade of training under your belt, and your body hasn't put on its adult weight yet.
I'd say that 5.12 is rare amongst a certain generation of climbers, but this is not for long. It will soon be common for fifteen year-olds to swarm up 5.12s in gyms, and not long after that 5.10s will be known as "That thing your parents can play with while waiting to drive you home."
The thing with climbing is that it's a combination of physical and technique. You can train your physique, but you need to be of a certain build to be one of the greatest. And technique is something you never stop improving. So being good in high school, with the right build and perseverance you could have been significantly better in your mid twenties. But it would have been at the cost of the rest of your youth.
That's the key, plus in all likelihood some niggling injuries picked up along the way which might haunt you into old age.
It was some kind of magnificent but toxic culture, very similar to surf culture, with hidden spots and tribal rivalries.
The first gym to open in Toronto carried over this tradition, but other gyms eventually opened and went with "friendlier" grades, so there can be a big discrepancy between a new gym's ratings and an old trad climb in Ontario. But newer outside routes, especially new hard sport routes, are put up by climbers with newer grade sensibilities, so the indoor and outdoor grades are consistent.
Personally, I've taken that as another aspect of the training: work on not caring about the grade.
I remember Colorado feeling similar. And Spain being the same, but with the level set to 5.13 In the Basque Country.
Here in Fontainebleau, it’s rare to see a group of road tripping euros rock up who aren’t all projecting at least 7a (V6).
I’ve also lived in Trad communities in the states where 5.10 is something you work up to over years of never falling, so I understand where you’re coming from and how it could seem strange to encounter the Other World where 5.12 is No Big Deal for the first time.
It doesn't help that all the easy rocks are completely polished and unusable after decades of usage.
There are 20,000 boulder problems here. Try as we might it’ll take a while to polish them all.
> Chris Sharma was climbing for a year before he was doing the hardest sport routes in the world, but that isn't most people.
That's true, but 5.12s are not even close to the hardest routes. They're hard, but totally manageable for a dedicated climber.