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OPAM and Dune (jbuilder) work very nicely IME. You don't need to touch a Makefile, you don't need to build anything by hand outside of the package manager.

i wish there was something like `jbuilder new`, but alas. my current impression is that everything in ocaml-land wants you to spend time writing cryptic configuration files and inventing bespoke project structures.

It is very straightforward to use opam and dune.

OPAM? [1]

(Haven't used cargo, and only briefly touched OPAM. Don't know the feature gap, but am curious to learn more)

[1] https://opam.ocaml.org

Yes, opam is a mess to work with.