A conversation on relevant subjects helps filtering out people with fake or stuffed resumes in a matter of minutes, assuming the interviewer is a technical person. It also helps understanding if it's someone we can work with as a colleague. If all goes well, we would make an offer, but will make it clear that the 3 month probation period _is_ the actual interview.
Had very good results with this approach, but it doesn't really scale or work for larger projects with aggressive hiring plans.