Of course, you can change the defaults, but creating the 'look' you want textually without an interactive creator is non-trivial. Given that the main strength of graphviz is that I can write it in a stream of consciousness (like markdown), or generate it automatically using some kind of script from another data source, this is somewhat of a blocker in its usefulness.
And, of course, the customisation syntax is fairly clunky and not easily readable. I don't think I've seen a DSL that does colouring well in this regard, but graphviz goes a step further by not being consistent with CSS or other markups.
It is good in terms of feature-completeness, but as mentioned in the TC, there are areas where it could be polished up a bit to make it feel more modern.
Edit: found it https://github.com/vidarh/diagram-tools/tree/master
And then the graphics need to look more D3 than UML.