The back button normally preserves scroll position. Your site takes me back to the top of the list.
History transitions are especially jarring in Safari. It optimistically restores the viewport state, so at first the page appears to be loaded but doesn't respond to clicking or scrolling. Click events register before the page is repainted, so the user can end up on the wrong page. After that, the list appears to jump to the top.
As other people have mentioned, some ways of opening a new tab work, and others don't.
> Once it's loaded there's no faster way to traverse a website, IMHO.
In my experience, this is almost never true. SPAs are good for some kinds of interaction, but traversing collections of resources is what web browsers are designed to do, and they do it pretty well.
The author's criticism is that people often build SPAs based on theoretical benefits and don't recognize or don't put in the effort to fix the practical shortcomings.