Yes, you need the gradient. And despite what the autodiff people say, that might be hard and/or not very useful in practice, if your likelihood is based on running a lengthy astrophysical simulation.

You can run HMC on any differentiable surrogate surface surface. It's only the accept/reject step that has to use your real model and data. You might consider that if you have a less hairy approximation to your model.

Emcee is popular in astronomy, partly because of network effects, partly because it's a really nice package, and partly because the method's a great fit for some of the posteriors you have: often unimodal-ish even if the likelihood is nasty to compute, and often in not that many dimensions. It would fall flat on its face for something like a Bayesian neural network.