Probably not for old "3 gear with torque converter" or similiar.
Probably not for old "3 gear with torque converter" or similiar.
However, it's more convoluted to use. You have to engage the clutch, put the shifter in neutral, and release the clutch again. Compared to automatic where you just have to hold your foot on the brake pedal.
Stop/start reduces fuel consumption on test cycles like NEDC for both automatics and manuals, but I'll bet in the real world the benefit is mostly seen with automatics as many manual drivers will rarely bother to use it.
This is how you should drive if you know you're going to be stopped for more than a few seconds. 'Convoluted' doesn't come into it - it's the default.
Now, when driving stop/start equipped vehicles, I always try to use it. But in a manual, it does takes more thinking and effort and I wonder how many casual drivers actually bother.
The thing is, most of the time you don't really know how long you're going to be stopped for. Will that light take 3 seconds or 30? A manual makes you decide whether to stop the engine, but an automatic just does it every time without having to think about it or perform extra steps. (although, you can override it if you know it's going to be a short stop by just pressing the brake lightly.)
I'm glad start stop is supported on manuals this way. It makes sense. I thought the stop start systems didn't really save much fuel, but I've read some real world tests that clock in at 8~10% savings. All that idle time does really add up.
Now I just don't care about that, since it was too annoying at stop lights, which has led to incidents of auto-stop and immediate start and even a half auto-stop. Didn't notice and bad effects on the car.
If you take a driving test in the UK and do this, that would be a minor fault. You can only have a few minor faults before you fail the test. The rationale is that you need to be in full control of the car at all times, and when you set off you mustn't drift backwards at all. The easiest way to do this without needing three legs is to use the handbrake. Unless you have a diesel engine that has enough torque without any pressure on the accelerator pedal to pull away.
For example if you are turning right and waiting for oncoming traffic to clear, then someone pauses and flashes their lights to let you turn, if you then turn that would be a minor fault in Driving Test conditions - where you are supposed to ignore the driver inviting you to turn and sit like a diddy.
Also you are allowed 15 minor faults before failure, which is quite a lot really.
And now days, newwer cars have the "hill hold" feature which automatically prevents you rolling backwards anyway.
I usually keep my foot to the side, as I was explicitly taught in driving school by a professional instructor to do. And if the master cylinder ever starts to malfunction, since the plate spacing is really tight, keeping the clutch pedal depressed while stopped could prematurely burn up the clutch and the torque plate.
So, it may require more thinking, but I can rest my feet while the light is red and it actually feels good.
Few years ago, I had colleagues who came from a certain foreign country and were not used to manual transmission. They got a company car with manual transmission. The clutch was burned in one month.
A clutch is destroyed by friction - slippage between the two plates that comprise it. This is a useful characteristic when pausing on a hill for a few seconds but I suppose there must be some people that keep the clutch partially engaged for a very long time.
But if you are sitting at a junction with the clutch entirely depressed for a long time the plates are disengaged and no damage is done. That's a bad habit for other reasons, such as if you get rear ended your car is still in gear and could then cause a further accident.
I generally don't. I too have driven several manual pickups, and only once had a squeaky throwout bearing. But I bought that one used so who knows what it had gone through before me.
Some engines are more susceptible to this than others.
Putting the car in neutral is basically one meaningful action - changing gear, yes you have to depress the clutch move the gearstick to neutral and then let the clutch go - but to describe that as "cycle the clutch twice" is madness. Am I missing something?
No madness involved.
(It happens to involve the clutch, but that is "automatic", as in "muscle memory", even though I drive less than once a month)
I would like to know:
1. How long you need to idle to recharge the electricity to battery you use to restart the engine?
2. Does NEDC and others require that the battery has same state of charge at the end of the cycle as when beginning?
Stop/start will automatically disable if the battery has a low state of charge.
It's a pain...and depending on the break, it really may become pain.
Usually if I drive my manual private car, I disengage the gear already on the way to the red light. It just rolls. I break, motor turns off. When I want to start, I push the clutch, motor turns on, off you go.
The good thing is, If I want the motor to launch, I can by pushing the clutch slightly. I can also release it and put my legs wherever I want. I can relax.
Holding one leg constantly on the break is just annoying. For you, your leg and the guy behind you who has to look into that bright red light pointlessly shining in his eyes.
It's a pain...and depending on the break, it really may become pain.
Oh, with an automatic you have the option of putting it in Park also. Certainly, it's a good idea to do that if you're stopped for more than a few seconds. You don't have to keep your foot on the brake, but doing so is enough to activate stop/start.
That's both a long-winded and incorrect way of putting it. If you are stopped, then you're either already in neutral with the clutch released or the clutch is already engaged. There is no other way.
Really, the rule is just "you have to have the clutch released". For experienced drivers of manual transmissions, this is one smooth action.