Neglected Food Bubbles: The Espresso Coffee Foam
ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
Getting the beans from a roasting store like Temple or Verve or Ritual (Sac/San Fran area) makes all the difference in the world for taste and crema IMO.
The amount of crema is definitely tied to air exposure so the quicker you can use up your beans the better (under 2 weeks or so from exposure to air). Additionally, its been my experience that I have to adjust the grind setting to 1 step finer if the beans have been sitting for a very long time, past the 2 week mark or so. I do this because at original setting, the extraction begins at a much lower pressure threshold than usual, leading to under-extraction and weak, watered-down espresso with little to no crema. It'd be nice to know if anyone has studied this particular aspect of coffee beans needing to be ground finer to compensate for age to maintain consistency.
- disclosure: I'm Italian and I believe espresso in San Francisco sucks almost universally
To my taste as a non-Italian, Blue Bottle espresso is delicious. The baristas at the Blue Bottle location in the Financial District usually make a scrumptious cappuccino.
Having lived in Europe myself, I also know this to be true. Further, that it happens in many food categories gives credence to the espresso observation: cheese, wine, bread, etc. It goes both ways: hamburgers, Mexican food, Japanese food, etc, in Europe are not the same as you find in the US, Mexico, and Japan. It's not so much a critique as an observation about how hard it is to replicate cultural foods.
But I do have to add that people in the US have this attitude that they can borrow and replicate a cultural food, and then they hype it and get smug about--without realizing they haven't captured the essence of the original. How hard can it be to operate an espresso machine after all? Well, very hard if you include selecting and blending beans from around the world, roasting them right, grinding them just so, and dosing and tamping it right.
Maybe South Indian food is different, but I haven't had good North Indian food anywhere in the US.
And the selection of one be all and end all criteria, in case of beer hops, in case of coffee the pureness of the beans I guess, that everyone measures itself on, seems actually very American to me.
PS: Chocolate seems to be the worst offender, IMO. Good chocolate is pricy and has a poor shelf life, but tastes so much better than even expencive chocolate you can find in the US. Even when you can find a good brand companies just tend to make worse product over time, because that's how you maximize profit.
Person 1: Steak is the best food!
Person 2: No, pasta is the best food!
Person 1: I am from Kobe Japan and steak is best!
Person 2: I am from Italy and pasta is best!
And so it goes. Both people are right and wrong at the same time. Preferences aren't universal facts.
Just trying to have everyone get along and get to be right.
Pet peeve: high-end restaurants in the U.S. mostly don't care about the coffee they serve. A high-end restauarant will employ a bar tender, a pasty chef, a somellier, but not a barista. So you enjoy a fantastic meal and then when you order an espresso at the end, you get something the server pulled out of an automatic machine. Nooo, why!?
I'm just very used to italian-style espresso in the cafés and turkish at home, as that's the cultural norm around here (croatian adriatic coast; basically ex-venetian colony ;) ).
I'd like to give other styles a shot, but only provided they're worth a damn. Can't say I've been impressed by whatever the muck they serve at McDonald's is, or by home drip machines. Nor instant ofc...
I sometimes also make Turkish w/o the cardamon, usually with a bit of sugar, maybe with a splash of cream (blasphemy I know). But I will also occasionally use a French press, a Chemex, or make cold brew. My wife uses a Moka pot, and I will sometimes use that to make a Cubano, though it's not nearly as good as a Cubano made in a pump espresso machine.
It just depends on my mood.
I gave up trying to make good espresso at home after getting frustrated with a Gaggia machine. My fault, not the machine's, but in the end I decided it was too much effort for 1-2 oz of coffee. :-(
To answer your question: as long as the beans are freshly roasted and ground, and the coffee made with care, I'm not particularly partial to any technique. You can even have a mighty fine cup of drip coffee. I think espresso is just a much more demanding technique to make well.
About instant: I know Israelis and South Africans who prefer it, but no Americans.
Maybe the worst way to brew coffee: percolators. Oh the horror.
I also grew up with italian espresso and I always wondered why all these crafty, specialist roasters (all over the world) can't do a drinkable espresso and always end up with undrinkable acid in a cup.
A lot of italian espresso blends are a mix Arrabica/Robusta. Robusta beans create the sought-after strong/bitterish italien espresso flavor and probably also reduce/mask/balance the acidity.
Robusta beans according to the crafty roasters are low quality garbage, and they only care about arrabica beans. Clever marketing by the arrabica industry? Robusta beans have a bad reputation because they are majorly used by cheap coffee brands - but not all robusta beans are the same either.
So because third wave/hipster coffee shops only do arrabica, but italian style espresso needs a blend. That's why we can't have a good things.
I simply order espresso machiato when i want an espresso, the bit of milk foam reduces acidity to an acceptable level.
There is a longer article somewhere on nytimes about this topic. can't find it anymore.
Not sure about the authority of this page:
> Most of these Italian blends (Illy is the exception) clearly make effective and imaginative use of coffees of the robusta species
http://www.coffeereview.com/italy-seen-from-america-nine-gen...
http://www.lavazza.co.uk/uk/at-home/blends/caffe-espresso.ht...
(Lavazza has a number of other "100% arabica", including Qualità Oro that is more or less the golden standard - pun intended).
http://www.segafredo.it/it/a-casa/caffe/moka/emozioni-100-ar...
Illy we already said.
I personally don't wander beyond these three vendors (Segafredo is from my hometown, Lavazza is the most ubiquitous, Illy is the mainstream high-quality choice), but there are likely more. To be fair, there are also a lot of Robusta mixes as you go down, but the "100% arabica" brands is firmly at the high end.
Another difference is that American crafty houses are roasting lighter than in Italy. For whatever reason, Americans are following a different craft and not optimizing their espresso recipes nearly as well as the Italians and not using the same goals and procedures as they do.
And frankly I'm convinced some of the roasters simply don't know what they're doing. They've been told that roasting light is good, and they don't realize that light roasting with espresso brewing is risky. Especially with bean types that are known to be acidic.
Another note, isn't the ratio for espresso in the States different than in Italy. When I was a barista in Chicago we did 1:2 coffee to water. I thought I heard that in Italy 1:3 or 1:4 was more popular. I may be wrong
https://medium.com/@sinzone/why-is-espresso-in-america-so-ba...
In my opinion the only true Italian Espresso in the Bay Area is made at Cavalli Caffe. It’s a simple small bar with no interior design, no fancy coffee beans, and no extravagant machines. Cavalli is owned and operated by one man from Naples.
Check out this simple vacuum sealer: http://www.pump-n-seal.com/
No affiliation, I've just been using this device for years. It's basically a simple bike pump in reverse. Put your coffee in a mason jar, give it a few good pumps, and you have delicious crema for weeks and weeks. Every time you pop the top the aroma is like you're opening a fresh bag.
One of those things that you're surprised most coffee shops and connoisseurs don't use religiously as it makes such a huge difference.
Pulling a righteous shot of espresso takes a serious amount of practice and I am glad that there are attempts at quantifying the magic of a skilled barista.
Disclosure: I've been a beta tester for a while; I use it a lot.
Then there's the many people who go to a coffee shop for a drink with a ton of syrup in it, so don't really get as much impact off the taste of the coffee, and will generally care more about the atmosphere and service.
Between the two factors, general audience reviews like Yelp lose a lot of their value if you're particular about your coffee.
See the World Barista Championship winners, not a single Italian yet, unfortunately. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/World_Barista_Championship
Even that I think they're losing ground on - Slayer or Synesso out of Seattle, or Mod Bar out of Indiana are pretty great, certainly right up there with any Simonelli or La Marzoco.
For consumer level espresso machines, I think Breville (Australian) has been blowing away just about everything under 2k$. It's been interesting to watch them bring more modern control tech into the cheap market.
1: https://foursquare.com/v/spyhouse-coffee/52408489498e959bae4...
I'll be studying this article for a while.
* I also roast my coffee beans, but a trusted coffee roaster will work too.
ftfa: > Only recently, some aspects of the Physics and Chemistry behind the espresso coffee foam have attracted the attention of scientists.
Leaving the weasel-words aside, David at least initiated work on creama (and much more) in 1990s w/ his work, recorded in Espresso Coffee: Professional Techniques[0] c. 1996.
He is camped firmly in the space he helped define in the 90s, and doesn't appear to be going away. He's (in)famous for touring the other shops in Seattle and trying their coffee (espresso), and leaving the cups barely touched, muttering of "lemon defects". After 20 years parked where he is stylistically, he's not getting the attention of people looking for 'new hotness', but if you're for a coffee with its roots in taking measurements, iterating, iterating, iterating and sticking w/ principles at the expense of current fashion, Espresso Vivace is worth a trip. I prefer the "cart" which is a literal hole in the wall beside Chase Bank on Broadway[1].
I'm not a "fan" of many things, and his coffee isn't always my favourite, but seeing no mention of him yet strikes me as absurd.
pre-edit: scanning TFA has me scratching my head even more -- referring to the grounds as "powder" is just wrong. If you're going to bother to fuss this hard over coffee and technique, pedantry here is required.
edit: more links, date clarification
[0] https://www.amazon.com/Espresso-Coffee-Professional-David-Sc...
[1] http://espressovivace.com/index.php/retail/sidewalk-bar/
Also take the very first coffee that rises.
Oh, I also use a milk frother. Heat milk on the micro and the froth it, making sure only micro bubbles form. And trying to make sure no much air mixes in. (which causes bad big bubbles)
Is it because Cuban coffee is always smoky and overroasted? Or maybe I just bought the wrong Cuban coffee.
Many cuban restaurants I have been to in Miami use Café Bustelo which to be honest probably wouldn't be so crappy if the roast-to-serve-delta was lower. Robusto beans get a bad wrap.
[1]https://www.amazon.com/DeLonghi-EC155-Espresso-Cappuccino-Ma...
Something else for people to consider: a moka pot will actually make stronger coffee than an espresso machine, so many people might actually prefer a moka pot.
If an Italian American is an American that grew up in America and has Italian ancestors... well, I can't see how that's relevant when it comes to coffee.
And sorry for the slight offtopic, but Americans always looked fun when talking about their 1/16th Navajo and their Irish great great grandparent :-)
[1] https://www.amazon.com/Rancilio-Espresso-Machine-Stainless-1...
And then fit a https://mecoffee.nl PID.
In Italy, espresso is simply called caffe. When you order coffee, you get an espresso. At home, many still use a caffettiera (sorry, do not know the word in English). A caffettiera will not produce any noticeable crema, but it is still an espresso.
I never drink coffee (I am way too energetic as is), but in Italy I constantly drink it since it is cultural. In fact, I leave tonight for Italy, so I expect a coffee soon after landing (after many many hours).
Similarly with coffee. If I order coffee in the afternoon in the US, chances are that I will get a pot that has been sitting on the hot plate for a couple hours. Specifying an espresso drink will at least ensure that it's fresh.
It is still espresso. I have no idea why you say it is not. Just pack the coffee grounds as you would on a espresso machine and you will get your crema. Though, it is a crude espresso machine, so don't expect a miracle.
My daughter was just in Italy, and granted, she probably didn't stray from the tourist areas. But she said that she had to ask for espresso, or they would assume: She's an American so she must want coffee.
With that said, she still raves about the espresso.
I'm lucky to live close to one of the best espresso shops, which is the one which taught me that espresso shouldn't be bitter (Metto Coffee in Mount Pleasant, SC). They use beans from Zoka, specifically Espresso Cuatro, in combination with great equipment, water treatment, and mentorship from the owners.
In my experience at home, the beans make the most difference. Even a cheap grinder and equally cheap Krups espresso machine can give you a decent shot if you use distilled water and great beans (such as the Cuatro I cite above). As others have said, there's great joy in iterating your way towards pulling consistently good shots at home.
Honestly there's a bunch of really great coffee shops around here, well and a few terrible ones, can't say if they're the best, but it's not hard to get a decent cup.
The article is funny in one respect: SciAm is pretty strict against anything remotely resembling corporate PR disguised as science reporting. However, it was such a good article, and most of the science community is so caffeine addicted, that the editors gave him a pass.
That aside, food foams? What is the reasoning for giving these their own category?
As someone whose drink is a "ristretto" (which is mostly the crema) the espresso in a given little italy vs. something served by someone under the age of 50 is very different. The closest thing I could find to a standard Italian coffee in SF was at Mara's Italian Pastries in north beach.
Could a hipster do it? Sure. Would I ever line up or wait for their explanation to find out? No.
Our beans also came shipped from Italy. They had a use-by date that was months in the future.
Only way I'll make coffee.
A good cup of coffee is about as good a sex. It's in the same ballpark.