You're right that the development experience is nothing like "real" native. It's using lots of web tech so it's never going to feel like Java or Swift, however, that comes with its own advantages such as code reuse and libraries.
I'm actually really impressed with the quality of the apps you can create with it. They feel native and feel really smooth, but you need to be aware of the limitations. The major one is that the apps are essentially single threaded so you need to be aware what work you're doing to avoid UI stutters. That does make it less suited for very data heavy apps, but you can work around it if needed.
Overall, as a "real" native developer I'm pleasantly surprised.