I use "HN Special"[1] with the visual theme turned off (it irritates me). It also offers infinite scrolling, although it makes accessing the search box a little tedious.
[1] https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/hn-special-an-addi...
[1] https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/hn-special-an-addi...
However, I frequently use HN without scripts and cookies, and I find it somewhat disappointing that it uses cookies to store its settings instead of local storage.
I'll open an issue on the repo when I find the time though.