> Sadly there's (seemingly) no way to interview people for this ability
I had one interview where the interviewer simply showed me a printed page of code, and asked me to talk about it.
I spotted a few problems and debatable constructs, and we had a good 3 minutes discussion.
Since at least I spend more time reading code than writing it, that felt like a truer test of my abilities than many of the coding tasks.
PS. Yes, I got the job.