I visit websites for information and to read them. Not to see how fancy designers can make the page look.

E:

If your page doesn't make sense without CSS enabled, your content is a mess and no amount of design is going to make it better.

http://motherfuckingwebsite.com/

I have a rule in my adblocker for ".css" which blocks all external stylesheets.

Inline styles are rare enough and usually sensible enough that I don't mind them when they appear. I have a bookmarklet to remove them on a per-page basis if needed.