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For general analytics I use Mint (http://haveamint.com/), it costs $30 (one time fee) per site, but I think it's worth it for the nice UI. They also have lots of great plugins.

I've also been using Mixpanel (http://mixpanel.com/) for tracking more nitty-gritty user actions.

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I've also used Shaun Inman's Mint (though an older version, not the current, I'm sure the UI is even better now) and have only ever had good things to say about it. Definitely worth the very reasonable cost.

Oh the UI is awesome. I was reading(on Shaun Inman's blog) that he is inspired by geometric relationships, that's basically how he drew the logo for Mint and Fever.

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