How to Hack an ADT Alarm System
ipvm.com
ipvm.com
Their website is straight out of 1990, but Burglargard is a bullet resistant effectively smash-proof invisible coating that can be applied to all windows in your home: http://www.burglargard.com
The nice thing about it is that if you have them install it, it comes with a lifetime no yellow, no peel, full replacement warranty. If you opt to install it yourself, it is much cheaper (Approximately $1 per sq foot), but no warranty, so not as useful.
Also, make sure to get 6" or longer screws to put into external door frames. It ensures the frame is anchored to studs and makes ripping it out via a typical kick the door in attack much more difficult. Stuff like the haven lock (http://www.havenlock.com) also really helps make it more difficult to kick in the door.
Note that these things make a break-in demonstrably more difficult, but they won't prevent it. I see an alarm system as a more passive security device, much like an intrusion detection system. "Hey someone broke in" means someone still broke in. I'm more of a fan of trying to make the act of breaking in in addition to ensuring I have a decent idea if someone does.
Defense in depth doesn't just apply to computers, it is a way of thinking :)
Door frames and window frames are a common source of intrusion, but if your frames are made out of wood then I don't know if the 6" screws are going to save you, the wood is often a source of failure rather than coming unscrewed. It just splinters away.
As to Havenlock: many back doors are slide, and can be bounced out of their runs. It might help on the few which are swing doors rather than slide (at least around here). I think the whole app thing is kind of dumb, it is just a wedge, and still requires drilling into the floor.
If your fire exit strategy currently relies on the ability to break a window, you've already failed at fire safety. You need to be able to OPEN a fire exit in an emergency, not MAKE one...
I.e. if the wood is being heated by fire on either side....
This is quite false. The ability to use a bedroom window as an emergency exit is required by typical US building codes (e.g., http://www.bobvila.com/articles/406-what-makes-a-room-a-bedr...).
The basic rule is that, besides the entry door, there has to be one other exit that opens to the outside, which can be another door, but is usually a window. There are size rules for the window.
The window is intended not just for entry of firefighters, but also for unassisted exit.
That's not my reading of the page you linked to. The window has to be openable, not breakable.
In these buildings, you'll see an apartment on each floor with a glass window in their door, and a heavy object hanging from a chain next to it. (It's a fun puzzle for guests -- "See that bolt hanging from the chain? See the adjustable crescent wrench on the next floor? How does that work?")
Had we not left the door unlocked, chances are people wouldn't have tried a daylight robbery.
Reasonable security measures are also an important part of computing.
Frankly my threat model was drug addicts looking for a quick score and/or neighborhood kids up to no good. My security system had many flaws, but my threat model doesn't include a sophisticated attacker with a 1k-4k piece of jamming equipment.
First, make sure you have a solid wood or metal door with a deadbolt. Second, reinforce all exterior door frames with door jamb armor, a large metal plate that covers your door jamb and 3 1/2 in screws that secure it into the frame. [1]
There's quite a few other window security films on the market. 3M is probably one of the best. [2]
You'll want to look into securing your glass to the window frame so it doesn't just pop the glass out in one piece. Some windows make that easy to happen and some secure the glass in pretty well. 3M has a few attachment systems that hold the glass in the frame. One easy option is a silicone sealant called Dow Corning 995. It's an incredibly strong silicone that bonds the security film to the window frame. [3]
And finally get a gun and learn how to use it. You can tell me how much you hate guns but when a insane machete-wielding man kicks in your front door, a phone in your hand dialing 911 is not going to stop him in time: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5bsAMSQ13bY
[1] http://armorconcepts.com/EZ-Armor/
[2] http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Window_Film/Solu...
[3] http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000L00N0Q/ref=oh_aui_searc...
How common of an occurrence is that for you?
Given machete-bearing lunatics are far less likely than depressed teenagers, perhaps your cost/benefit analysis on being prepared is lacking a few variables.
And the CDC disagrees with that assessment. Even as gun ownership is on the rise [1], and more people than ever are carrying concealed firearms, the number of people (raw number, mind you) accidentally killed with firearms each year continues to drop. The accident rate shows an even more marked decline. [2]
There are, according to the CDC, 308 million people in the United States. That’s 308,745,538. Of those 308 million people, only 600 were accidentally killed with a firearm. That’s a 0.000194% chance that you will be accidentally killed with a gun in any given year. According to the National Safety Council, over 12,000 people die every year simply by falling down.
But, our difference in opinions doesn't really matter here so, good luck to you. There are sheep, there are wolves and there are sheep dogs.
[1] http://www.wsj.com/news/articles/SB1000142412788732368920457... [2] http://abcnews.go.com/US/story?id=95379
We're talking about the organization that was forbidden from spending money on firearms injury research, right?
> That’s 308,745,538. Of those 308 million people, only 600 were accidentally killed with a firearm.
Ah, clever. Take a discussion of homicide/suicide and start presenting stats on accidental deaths as if it were at all relevant.
To return to the actual point, if you have a gun in the house, it's far more likely to be used by your kid to kill themselves as you are to be confronted by a machete wielding lunatic. On a non-anedoctal level, the stats just don't work.
Also, this:
> There are sheep, there are wolves and there are sheep dogs.
is just fatuous.
I cannot see an easy way to mitigate this. Even if it has anti-jam it is going to just shift the frequencies which you could also likely jam. I guess the panel could increase its output power to try and compensate, but all that does is increase the equipment cost of an attacker, not really stop it completely.
So I guess the main take-away from this is to go wired, not wireless for security system installs. However it is unclear if security systems really do much of anything anyway (as police often ignore home alarm calls as they're more often than not false alarms).
You're better off just spending the money on higher fencing with trellis skirting, motion flood lighting, and fake signs that say "protected by FakeCo Security." It won't cost you $30/month for the rest of your natural life and offers the same deterrent.
Most smash & grabs are 10 minute affairs. Some robbers will happily continue to rob with an alarm going off, since they know the response time won't be close to 10 minutes.
I think rolling your own ZigBee security system is more safe (and cheaper).
In most neighborhoods with above-ground power lines, it's incredibly easy to access the neutral wire.
Although a Springfield Armory XD45 makes a wonderful backup :)
As does this sign in my rear window: http://img3.etsystatic.com/il_570xN.284053143.jpg
Getting that sort of battery life out of ZigBee would be difficult.
Fortunately the thieves got caught and were forced to pay compensation years later.
The entire point of an alarm is it goes off if something bad happens; not being able to go off is a bad thing.
Cars are laughably insecure by computing standards, but yet stolen cars are at a low (when you adjust for total cars). They're also targeting pre-digital cars still on the road, if you look at the DMV's "top stolen cars" list, they're almost all 1990s cars or older.
You read a few stories about the "Russian maffia" having key fobs which can unlock modern cars, but these are few and far between. Even the more common ODB-II port key reset method is fairly rare, but gets heavily reported when it does occur.
So I'm going to use the same example, but use that example as evidence that this won't become common: just like cars, and garage door openers.
http://www.standard.co.uk/news/london/pull-over-all-range-ro...
http://www.autoblog.nl/is-het-zo-makkelijk-om-een-bmw-1m-te-...
Minus the part where ADT is having to defend themselves against a class action suit. I'd consider that "real life".
Or, just run in and smash the panel. If you do it quickly enough, it won't send the signal.
Or, get a ladder. Most systems do nothing to protect the upstairs of a two story house.
Residential security systems are for show and to get discounts on homeowner's insurance. I'm pretty sure the sign up front deters more people than the actual system.
Do you think insurance companies would give discounts unless the benefits were per their actuaries real?
I'm sure the sign does a lot of good, but it's just part of a system of defense in depth which starts there (or perhaps not living in a bad neighborhood).
Some systems, e.g. alarm.com ones send a signal to the monitoring centre when an entry door is opened, then if no disarm signal is sent (e.g. the control panel was destroyed), they treat that as an alarm and dispatch police. It's also possible and done by some companies to hide the main control panel somewhere unobtrusive (and mute its speakers) and just place a remote panel by entry points as well as a remote speaker.
As for upstairs, that's people being foolish. Myself, I would never accept one that didn't protect upstairs entry points just to save a little bit of money. As they say, a fool and his money^H^H^H^H^Hsecurity are soon parted.
They stand on the bedrock that their existing systems can't be manipulated like that. While this article makes it clear that this is not a cheap or unsophisticated hack, depending on the value of what you have in your home this kind of hack can very much be worth the price of admission especially when free and explained on the internet.
Alarm companies have put quite a bit of thought over the decades into anti-tamper measures. I suspect the reason the "hole" described in the article exists is because someone felt the other AT measures would cover it adequately enough for typical usage.
Probably close to $500 worth of DSC hardware.
Alarm monitoring is like printing money. The fact that ADT charges as much as they do, and installs such a craptasic system has always amazed me.