The size difference over a wire between gzipped/deflated text and protocol buffers is also usually dwarfed by almost any other asset being loaded on the page (images, fonts, videos etc).
The benefits of human readability and simplicity probably outweigh those size differences, I think.
I do agree there's a lot of room for improvement in the html/css/js combination, though. They were designed for far less dynamic interfaces than those we're trying to build today.
The CSS model in particular is very conceptually complicated for a layout system. I say that having used it for 13 years.