The Awful Reign of the Red Delicious
theatlantic.com
theatlantic.com
Strangely, yellow delicious stays good despite getting softer. It doesn't get mealy, just softer, and it's still great to eat.
Noting the 1980s as when it all started to go down hill: "But as genes for beauty were favored over those for taste, the skins grew tough and bitter around mushy, sugar-soaked flesh."
They're all propagated from cuttings, hence they are genetically identical. Which means the skins are the same as they were before, and the flesh as is bitter (or otherwise) as it was before, etc.
If they weren't, they wouldn't be called the same name, as evinced by many other 'modern' varieties, that are crosses or hybrids of (other) known apple varieties.
No, it actually doesn't mean that. First, genetics aren't the only determinants of those features; environmental factors, growing, shipping, and storage conditions, etc., all play a role.
Second, propagation by cutting doesn't mean they are genetically identical, because mutations still occur and are an important source of variability, and not all of them result in different branding.
> But as genes for beauty were favored over those for taste, the skins grew tough and bitter around mushy, sugar-soaked flesh.
You can also just plant the seeds and let them grow naturally, but it takes a lot longer to get any kind of results (not to mention more space).
I'm just getting started on this process at my farm actually (apples, pears, asian pears, and cherries so far, seedlings are growing, but I haven't grafted scions yet). It's a major exercise in long-term record keeping.
Here's an example of a tree with a lot of varieties grafted to it, though this guy isn't doing it for breeding purposes: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2437247/250-varietie...
Here's a wikipedia article that mentions the grafting process for testing new hybrids: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grafting
Perhaps the reason why we don't like Red delicious is the 'paradox of choice'. 40 years ago, there were perhaps 4 varieties of apples on average in a grocery store, today perhaps 9 or 10. Perhaps with the sweeter, crispier apples brought by advances in Agri-tech the Red Delicious has become lackluster in comparison.
[I notice that Fuji apples are a R.D. cross from the 1930s... But Fuji are vastly tastier (and more attractive!)...]
40 years ago you would, I expect, find a larger variety of apples, most of them heirloom (ie. open pollinated, with a history you could trace back several hundred years, and were free to propagate at home) at the 'average grocery store'.
Now you'll typically find a selection of apple varieties that were bred relatively recently, selected for shipping and long storage life (ie. ability to retain colour, sweetness (not necessarily flavour), resistance to bruising, consistent colour and shape, russets are eschewed as they're not currently popular, etc).
To the east of London, UK, there's a (somewhat) government-run farm at Faversham, where they are maintaining a mighty collection of apples - somewhere around 2,500 distinct varieties. They also maintain around 700 cherry, and 500 pears, amongst other fruits ... many of which they can trace back several hundred years.
Complaining about just one apple variety seems to be totally missing the point - you can most certainly find, with some small effort, an apple that perfectly suits your idea of the perfect specimen.
Nowadays, even at my crappy Food Lion, I can find those three, plus usually 2-3 additional. At local higher end groceries, I can find 8-10.
At my local farmers' market, I can find 20-30 (when they're in season).
My personal favorites are Honeycrisp, Jonagold, and Pink Lady, but since Jonagolds aren't common in my state and Honeycrisps are a restricted patent and very expensive, we usually buy gala, fuji, and sometimes braeburn.
But I wouldn't call it a taste, it's texture: "how it feels in the mouth".
Although this state goes hand in hand with a stale taste.
Wait, you mean it's possible for them to not be mealy?
I don't buy them anymore. When I buy apples (which is rarely), I usually get either Jonagold (cheap and good enough), or Gala or Braeburn when I want something better.
For a while a couple of years back I was an Apple geek (the fruit, not the computer).
It's good to see that the Gala, Braeburn and Fuji apples have already been mentioned.
If you can find them, Jazz apples[1] are a must-try. They are a cross between the Gala and the Braeburn, and the most amazingly crisp apple I've ever tried. I think the flavour isn't quite as good as a Gala, but that crispness is the complete opposite of the Red Delicious.
They are good looking apples, too.
The Pink Lady apple is also a good one. I think that might have my favorite flavour.
http://www.orangepippin.com/ is a good place to learn about the varities available.
Also my favorite!
I whole-heartedly agree on the Jazz apple! My current grocery store consistently has them in stock (which wasn't true of my prior one) so I'm a very happy camper.
Thanks for the Orange Pippin link. Going to check that out!
They are very crisp and sweet without the tart flavor other crisp varieties seem to have. They also don't go brown after cutting for a very long time.
Definitely worth the slightly higher price in the supermarket. I very much miss them when they are out of season.
Now if the pears could be just as good.
If you are in or near Portland, they do there is an annual apple tasting event:
They have over 30 varieties, many of which are very old and unusual. I'm a lover of crisp, tart apples, and they had one, sort of a cross between a Bramley and a Cox, which was one of the finest apples I have ever eaten.
http://www.economist.com/news/britain/21580468-britains-appe...
the Pink Lady is of the Cripps Pink variety. I suppose a lawyer would say a "Pink Lady brand Cripps Pink apple" :-)
I don't really see a reason I should care.
You can make this clear by not capitalizing "apple" in this case.
The Cox is an incredible apple that seems to grow well in England.
http://www.orangepippin.com/apples/coxs-orange-pippin
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/foodanddrink/8381396/Why-Coxs-wil...
Even deep in Iris Murdoch's "The Sea, The Sea" you'll find the Cox being praised by the lead character for being a prince of apples, and putting all others in the shadows.
And very soon, it's Cox season again. What a delight.
I like apples. What a strange thing to say!
As a kid in the late 80ies, in a medium sized town in Oregon, real Italian ingredients were not to be had for love or money, even if my parents even knew what they were. Now, when I go home to visit, they have real Italian cheeses, prosciutto, and even some mozzarella flown in from Italy. Local copycats (my Italian friends all get a kick out of "Oregonzola") are also on the rise, which is a good thing in terms of bringing down the prices and increasing availability to a wider swath of people.
My wife and I have discussed a few ideas for food companies that we might be able to start in the US.
The red delicious stands apart for its extreme crispness, and to those sensitive to it, biting in is like nails on a chalkboard. Also, it seems like one chew releases all the moisture, leaving a mouthful of dry bleh-ness with which to contend.
I call them ASOs (Apple-Shaped Objects)... and IMHO the only place they belong is in Snow White ;-)
Well, clearly you like Red Delicious apples. And that's fine, I'm not knocking you for that. But I don't think that's a majority opinion. As a result, most articles about apples are written by people who really dislike Red Delicious apples.
We pick apples all around Atlanta (and donate them to local food banks) and they are super interesting -- Apple trees that are grown from a seed (a "pippin") will produce an apple that has never before existed (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Apple#Cultivation), so we get lots of strange varieties from the fruits we pick around town : large, potato-shaped apples that are just dripping with juice but almost tasteless. Golf-ball sized apples that are green-skinned but pink-fleshed. Super delicious ("grocery store quality") apples with strange skin patterns and lots in between. There's tons of fun stuff to find out there.
But now in comparison to Gala, Fuji, Braeburn and others, Red Delicious seem floury, the skin is too thick and the flavour no where near as crisp and clean as the other varieties. There's also a lack of airmiles on most of these as we grow them here.
35 years on I don't think my kids have had a Red Delicious, and certainly not something I will miss if I never have another one.
It's in dutch, but the images are beautiful, too: http://www.npo.nl/fresco-s-paradijs-2/20-10-2013/VPWON_11752...
"Two buck Chuck" wine is the top selling wine year after year, but it's nowhere near the best. I consider Red Delicious "good enough" apples, and they're plentiful. Fiji and Honeycrisp will be my choice when they're available, but that isn't always the case.
On a less jokey note, I have found myself wondering how much gene engineering it would take to fix the mismatch between size and flavor.
Typically the fruit of the plant contains a lot of chemical energy in the form of sugars. Plants that have been selectively bred for hardiness (thicker skin, longer ripening periods, etc.) expend more on those traits as opposed to making more chemical energy in the fruit.
But I sort of get a kick out of imagining a meta-physical level of "flavor per fruit" out there in the world.
Incidentally, part of what I wonder about gene engineering is whether we could keep most of the hardiness, etc, and focus very tightly on putting in more flavor compounds, instead of using the blunt stick of breeding and getting who knows what other characteristics correlated in with that. Of course it won't be free to the plant but we might still have some room for optimizing.
Basically what I'm getting at is that American fruit that's taken care of on the way to your mouth is great. If your local fruit tastes like this, then it's just not good fruit.
But if you go to a farmers market or a fruit stand, changes are you are getting fruit from local farms. At least this is the case where I live.
Also there are tons of varieties of Strawberries perhaps the ones where you live are different. Fragaria vesca looks like a strain popular around Europe that looks very different from the American variety.
When it comes to tropical fruits it is the same: American bananas taste like Styrofoam, guavas are bland.
Another such exception is avocados: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Avocado#Harvest_and_postharvest (second paragraph under Harvest and Postharvest)
There is an initiative here in Europe that tries to keep old true-to-seed breeds alive but they have to fight the brutal lobbying of Monsanto and the likes.
In the end it is our fault when we buy stuff for the wrong reasons (cheaper is better, looks, etc).
Arche Noah:
"In the past 100 years we have lost about 75 percent of agricultural diversity worldwide."
"Beginning of the (20th) century there were 2,000 apple varieties, today you can find at the grocery store only max. 20 varieties."
https://translate.google.com/translate?sl=auto&tl=en&js=y&pr...
Fun fact: these days Joe Cocker cultivates old tomato breeds on his farm in Colorado and gets some of his seeds from the Arche Noah network.
Not that I disagree with the point, but I take issue with statements like this one, which can be true yet completely misleading.
How many varieties were available in grocery stores in the beginning of the 20th century? How many apple varieties exist now?
I suppose you're comparing apples to apples, but not in the way that that phrase is supposed to mean :)
I live in Europe now, and enjoy a wide variety of interesting regional apples. Whenever I return to the USA I'm disappointed by the selection and quality of apples available. Red and green. They look nice, but often are waxy and bland.
http://portlandnursery.com/events/appletasting.shtml
If they can procure 60 varieties, then it's definitely not at "US" thing.
I'm curious if there are any early generation Red Delicious apple trees left or if they've all become offspring of the selective breeding. I'd like to taste one.
A few years ago I started seeking out good-tasting apples and kept a spreadsheet to track my reviews. If you can get your hands on Jazz or Pacific Rose apples, they are amazing!
Another thing. Buy in season to get the best quality. Apple picking season is the fall. As a bonus, you'll notice the price drop significantly when the crop comes in.
>“We can’t sell that now,” the manager protests.
>To which Burford replies, in his soft Piedmont drawl: “That’s my point.”
You're kidding, right?
Red Delicious were responsible for me hating apples as a kid. McIntosh were responsible for me starting to love them again.
Now... red delicious are usually mealy and blandly sweet.
I really miss those oh so delicious apples of my youth.
You still can't beat wild apples though. Way better/complex flavor profile than bland/uniform store ones.
[1] http://www.applefestivalkent.co.uk/search/label/Theapples [2] http://www.nationalfruitcollection.org.uk/
If you've never tried it, manzano bananas are great too. They are tiny little bananas that have a distinct apple flavor mixed in.
I find the best apple for crispness and taste is the Cameo, followed by Granny Smithes. Red Deliciouses still hold 3rd place when it come apple taste and crispness for me.
It's been a long time since I had a soft Pink Lady though.
[1] I put that in quotes because I'm not sure whose season. I'm an Aussie, and we can get them year round, so I figure we must be importing at some point. As such, this may be a regional thing.
Try a Worcester Pearmain if you get a chance.
My kids nag me to buy "cheese product" which is like cheese but 10x the price (OK I'm exaggerating, it's 5x - cheese is already the most expensive single item of food we buy), tastes like plastic and is marketed in a kid-friendly way.
[1]. http://www.researchgate.net/publication/49591548_Composition...
I can't find a decent apple (of any variety) in SF. Granny, gala, delicious, golden, they're all mealy and either overly sweet or tasteless.
What's the problem?