The Most Useful Rope Knots for the Average Person
layhands.com
layhands.com
Simply know 5 knots and you are there.
Bowline - used whenever you want to tie a rope to an object with a loop at the end of the line. Really strong knot, but you can't tie it under tension so you won't get a perfect length if you are trying to tie something down. If you don't know what to tie, this is probably it.
Hitch - This is when you want to tie a rope around an object but the length matters or there is tension in the rope when you go to tie the knot. Useful in another 20% of situations. If you are tying something down I put a bowline on one side first since the length doesn't matter, and a hitch on the other since you will have tension in the line and want to tie it off with that tension in tact.
Know how to put a loop in the middle of a line. You can use the loop as a way to get extra tension in your line.
Figure eight stopper knot - whenever you need to keep a knot from going through something else. Not always obvious when it is useful.
Know how to properly tie the end of one line to the end of another.
If boating, also know how to tie a line to a cleat.
I've been boating/sailing my entire life, rock climbing for a few years too. Never needed to know more than that. Better to know 6 knots perfectly so that in an emergency you can literally do them with your eyes closed or not looking, than to know 15 and try to find the perfect one for some specific situation.
Learn the figure-8 family (on a bight, follow-through, double loop, etc), and you'll know enough knots for almost any situation.
On a bight it gives you a solid attachment point in the middle of a rope (tie a double loop if your life is gonna depend on it), Use a follow through around an object if you need to tie a hitch (also worth knowing a alternative like a clove hitch). A figure 8 bend is a _very_ secure way to attach two ropes together (again, also worth learning a simpler alternative like the becket bend).
Once you've got the figure 8 mastered, pick up a couple more complex knot "systems" (trucker's hitch, tensionless hitch, etc).
There are plenty of neat knots out there for specific situations, but for general purpose knot tying, nothing beats the figure 8 family.
Obligatory "here's why I think I'm an expert" blurb: I've been climbing since I was 10, and am a New York State certified rope rescue technician.
In rock climbing your loads are pretty defined. So the ropes are sized appropriately and the knots are the weakness. You care about the strength of a knot, the stronger the knot the thinner the line you can carry.
On a boat, that isn't really the priority. I have lines from 1/32" up to 2.5" on my boat. I don't really know the exact loads on anything and they are always changing. So all of the lines have a huge factor of safety, like 3-5x more than it needs. The strength of the knot matters little.
But what does matter is speed. I can tie a bowline in under 2 seconds and figure 8 in under 2 seconds easily, if i'm using both hands. But if I'm using one hand, well it takes me a hell of a lot longer with the figure 8 than the bowline. There are a lot of situations where that might happen. For me it usually arises in emergencies. Am I laying on the deck reaching to tie a knot with one hand while holding on with the other? Or am I tieing a knot around a towing post while the line is starting to get taught? Am I holding onto a sail while trying to tie it off because a shackle broke?
Those are the times that the ease of tieing and the speed of getting it done out weigh the benefits of the figure 8. They both have their place but doing both sports I think culturally thats why people know what knots they know.
Bowline is the only real loop making knot I use. Bends are for connecting two ropes: the most common is the square knot, and its variation with loops used for tying shoes, but the sheet bend is more generally useful since it can connect ropes of 2 different sizes, where square knots slip badly, and it is easier to untie; there are also more specialized bends that I have occasionally used.
If you have been boating and rock climbing with your apparently limited knowledge, you have been lucky. Start with a few knots, then add to them as needed, it's not hard to learn dozens of very useful knots and hitches, as long as you don't try to do it all at once.
Useful and ornamental ropework is a fascinating craft, which should appeal to hackers looking for something different to do, it can be both practical and good looking. The linked article mentions Ashley's Book of Knots which is a good reference, but Hervey Garrett Smith's "The Arts of the Sailor: Knotting, Splicing, and Ropework" has better descriptions for getting started and Graumont & Hensel's "Encyclopedia of Knots and Fancy Rope Work, 3rd ed" is the most complete reference.
I highly recommend learning to rock climb or sail as you will most definitely use the knots you learn on a regular basis.
Community Sailing sounds great - I wish I'd found out about it before I spent the summer of 2008 in the Boston area rather than once it turned cold in the fall.
The double bowline is really useful to throw to someone as a rescue harness if you need to pull them up something, and being able to tie a one-handed bowline is useful if you need to tie a rescue harness around yourself.
(Boy Scouts ftw)
-- the bowline, for putting a slip-free loop around something -- two half hitches, for putting a cinching loop around something -- the clove hitch, for tying a rope to a pole or other cylindrical object
Start with those three, tied properly, and you can do a lot.
I also 2nd the truckers' hitch.
And remember: if you can't tie knots, tie lots
Bowline -- outrageously strong, simple to tie, easy to undo, can tie it around things.
What can be better?
Bowline requires stopper knots when used on on modern ropes, otherwise it can slip. I've never seen kalmyk loop slip.
Both are simple and can be tied around things.
Kalmyk loop (which is exploding variant of eskimo bowline) is probably not secure enough for rock climbing, but better than bowline for other tasks. Less likely to spill and easier to untie.
Over the 2 year sailing trip, of the dozens I learnt, I used 5 in total:
- The bowline - One hitch (round turn and two halfs) - Two bends (fishermans, figure of eight) - One stopper (figure of eight)
Now back on land, I still use these 5 frequently, and the bowline daily. In a jam, you can use the bowline to do anything (even two of them to bend 2 ropes). It doesn't jam, is fine when wet, is ~60% as strong as the rope itself, and you can trust it with your life.
I still find it amusing that there is a Federal agency (US DOT) that requires that an applicant pass a knot tying test as part of a set of license exams :-)
** adjustable grip hitch
an easy to tie and very reliable noose-type knot
for when you need to adjust frequently
** zepplin bend
a very reliable way of joining ropes that's
also easy to tie and untie (but won't slip apart
on its own)
** double constrictor knot
grips anything you tie it around **very tightly**, exceptionally secure
** icicle hitch
when you know the direction of pull is going to be
mostly parallel to what you're tying your rope to,
then this knot grips even tighter
than the double constrictor.
useful for when hanging something from a vertical,
slippery cylinder (hence the name)
** ashley stopper knot
a bulky knot useful for when you don't want the end
of your rope to slip out
** alpine butterfly
an easy and secure way to tie a loop in the bightFor everyday use in tying things together so they don't fall apart and other odds and ends they are probably the most useful and easiest to learn.
Of course, if you rock climb, or sail, etc. there are different knots to learn.
slip
square
double half hitch
bowline
barrel (combine the ends of two equal (esp. equal diameter) ropes)
figure eight
(and, I suppose, whatever it's called that I use for shoelaces)
Gordian (mostly metaphysical applications ;-)Also helpful in everyday life are coiling / stacking skills you pick up when working with rope. For example, my headphone cords are never tangled. ;)
Specific to headphones and other cords: avoid introducing sharp bends as well -- cheap cords will eventually short out. (For me, I try to have a fairly fat "bundle" before I do the wrap, and don't pull it too tight.)
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