More like, "it's a theory that has significant gaps yet is able to bypass deep scrutiny because it panders to the common societal belief that fat people are all fat because they can't control themselves."
Food reward is a tributary in the flood (and a tributary will flood some houses), but Guyenet makes it out as "all the waters", and my belief is that people accept it uncritically because it resonates with society's view of fat people as gluttonous sloths with no self control.