‘Craft’ Whiskey Is Probably From a Factory Distillery in Indiana
thedailybeast.com
thedailybeast.com
This is a known practice, and one that a lot of people are unhappy about. We suspect that the TTB will be cracking down quite harshly on this in the near future; forcing a named distiller statement on the label.
That said... not all of the whiskey, rye, or bourbon that MGP produces is bad - some of its aged production is quite good, and companies like Angels Envy which further age it (basically double oak or quarter casking) can produce a unique and high quality product.
My problem with this is from the deception; imagine if it turned out that Dogfish Head and Stone brewing were actually buying their beer from MillerCoors! This is an unfair practice that puts actual craft distillers (some of my clients!) at a huge disadvantage. A named distillery requirement would go a long way to correcting this.
[1] www.Gastrograph.com
So, the modern beverage industry is largely an industry based on curation, blends, and added value. And that's fine. I'm not so sure why people care so much, but it must be because people have this romantic view that their beverages should live up to some farm-to-table ideal.
In wine, you have never needed to own the vineyards to be a vintner - as far back as medieval Europe, we had merchants purchasing grapes from various regions and blending their own house wines. There is still skill in matching various grapes, yeast, water, and oak - much more so than simply bottling someone else's spirit.
It is similar in coffee; individual farmers tend to the crops and produce the green coffee (sometimes a commodity, sometimes a specialty product). Roasters purchase the green coffee from a middleman who takes care of sourcing, shipping, and storage. Often this is done after a sample has been sent and roasted and the price has been negotiated. The roaster is then responsible for the majority of the final flavor profile of the bean. His (or her) level of roast, airflow, timing, etc, will determine how the coffee should be brewed, and what notes will be present and what will be absent.
So again, it's a little different in coffee than spirits... the grapes and green coffee beans are closer to the raw grain used in making whiskey and rye, than to the finished spirit. There is no deception in selling wine made by another vineyards grapes or coffee purchased through a middleman.
As a side note, all of the largest artisan coffee producers (ie Stumptown and Blue Bottle) have started Direct Trade relationships with coffee farms, and pay a price premium to the farmer to increase the quality on the farm side - investment like this has yet to happen in the distilling industry.
Here's a somewhat dated article on the issue where Blue Bottle talks freely about sourcing from Royal Coffee:
http://www.eastbayexpress.com/oakland/the-truth-about-your-c...
In this sense, yes, it's true that they have direct trade. I don't believe it's true that it's completely direct trade. Royal Coffee, like MGP, does one thing and they do it very well. They do it better than most anyone with modest resources could hope to do. Is that dishonesty? Is that straight up dishonesty? Maybe, but maybe not. If you are looking for the highest quality coffee for your company, it'd be foolish not to take advantage of a place like Royal Coffee.
As for other whiskies, I do think dishonesty is bad, although I'm not sure how many companies are "straight up dishonest" about their operations. Like Blue Bottle has Direct Trade coffees, High West does have a distilling operation. Angel's Envy seems to almost tout their finishing. Similarly, Hooker's House says their bourbon is "born in Kentucky".
People care because the bottles are straight up dishonest.
You don't get to second-guess or rationalize peoples' reasons for buying your products. You can't lie to people and then tell them they shouldn't care you lied to them.
My wife loves Templeton Rye, both because of the taste and because she grew up in a small town in Iowa. Knowing it's made by MGP doesn't change the taste, but knowing its made in Indiana would sure as hell leave a sour taste in her mouth!
From the article:
> “I have purchased hundreds of barrels of rye and bourbon from them,” John Bernasconi admits when asked about the Indiana factory. A principal in the New Mexico company, Bernasconi says that purchasing whiskey from MGP and bottling it is “a means to develop a brand and help fund the next step” of actually distilling a unique product.
Said like the contemptible opportunistic scab he obviously is.
This bourbon thing, though, I guess Americans don't care what's printed on the label. Hell, it was France that gave Andre flak for their "California Champagne". (Champagne comes from France, nowhere else) Anything goes here, I guess. Bourbon should be labeled similarly: either it's distilled, aged & bottled on the estate or it's bottled by a reseller. It's rather funny to think about champagne now, because I think "bourbon" is an American trademark like "champagne" is a French one. Naming things, harder than it seems.
If it is straight bourbon it must be at least 2 years old. If it is less than 4 years old it must say how old it is. If it has an age statement on it, that must be the youngest bourbon in the blend.
I'm not sure, but I think interstate legislation requires that the distillery location be on the label as well. Anyone who knows what they are talking about can narrow down the distillery based just on this.
Kona Brewing has the vast majority of their beer brewed in facilities on the mainland. Many people buy the beer thinking it's a brewed in Hawaii beer, but realistically it's just brewed on the mainland according to Kona's specs.
With consolidation in the craft beer industry I'd only expect more of this sort of truthiness in the future.
Now if I were to discover that the Kona I purchased while in Hawaii was actually brewed on the mainland I'd feel a little miffed...
I think it will be at least another 10 years until we start seeing large craft brewers purchasing smaller craft brewers. This has already happened in coffee with Blue Bottle (venture backed) purchasing Tonx Coffee and Handsome Roasters. Artisan Coffee has had ~10 years of growth on Craft Beer.
Of course, whether or not you consider that 'adding value' enough to sell to people or being fraudulent is a matter of opinion.
If you're a consumer that doesn't realize that there are no restrictions on the "craft" denotation, (similar to the organic denotation), then I would argue you are a for taking it on faith that there's a difference.
Is it disingenuous? Sure. Is it illegal? No. Should it be? Not unless you have a legal definition for the terms.
Ditto “ultra small batch bourbon” not being part of a small batch, or “first bourbon produced in Southern California since Prohibition.” where the bourbon is not produced in Southern California?
Ditto "They brag that they focus their “complete attention on executing each step of the distillation process.”", when they themselves don't pay any actual attention to any steps of the distilling process.
But hey, if you're fine with companies misleading as many people who read the common usage of English words into the English words they read, as much as they like, providing their wording can possibly be read, if you squint hard enough, in one very precise way that isn't quite lying, well, I suppose you'll get the companies and the advertising that you deserve.
As for me, I'm glad that over here we have the ASA.[0]
[0] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Advertising_Standards_Authorit... (See "noteworthy rulings" for some sweet wins for sanity.)
The American Distilling Institute (ADI) begs to differ. It defines 'craft spirits' as "the products of an independently-owned distillery with maximum annual sales of 52,000 cases, where the product is physically distilled and bottled on site."
For whatever that's worth. (Not a whole lot.)
1. http://www.ams.usda.gov/AMSv1.0/NOPOrganicStandards
2. http://www.foodnavigator-usa.com/Markets/Natural-The-most-me...
These two points are going to need to be assessed on an individual basis. Something sufficiently disingenuous can cross into false advertising even without the words having a strict "legal definition".
> sufficiently disingenuous
is better.
Anyway, there are a couple issues with the labeling. One is that some may feel the TTB's requirements aren't strict enough. The second issue is that the TTB is swamped and violations of the existing requirements get through all the time until someone gets around to filing a complaint.
Chuck Cowdery is quoted in the article, his blog [2] touches on these issues a lot, both with MGP rye and similar problems with bourbon.
If you're in SFBA and you want unique, independent rye, Old Potrero (an Anchor product) is a pretty good bet.
By far my favorite rye though is Goldrun: http://oldworldspirits.com/rye.html It's got some rare flavor notes, bready and yeasty almost--I like to say it has a "cheerios" note?--while still having some spice.
That said: I also love pretty much every bottle of High West I own (something like eight at this point.) They're all from the one source. Oh no. They're still well selected, blended, and aged. They make great drinks. Who cares if they're from the mainstream sources? I'm into drinking, not being a hipster.
http://www.gq.com/life/food/201311/bourbon-whiskey-family-tr...
If you're interested in American Whiskey production, I recommend the book from whicn the article above is excerpted.
Beer has a similar problem; "small batch artisinal" tends to result in inconsistent product, so the easiest thing to do is to cover up inconsistencies with a lot of malt and hops. It's actually significantly harder to make a nice light pilsner than it is to make a heavyweight IPA.
If you want a "craft" product, you should really make it yourself.
My company[1] builds quality control tools for artisan beverage producers; we know that craft production is a batch process relying on agricultural grains with inherent variation.
That doesn't mean it shouldn't be produced.
Craft production is undoubtedly higher quality than any continuous production - it just takes more skill (or software tools..) to do correctly and consistently.
Furthermore, the use of certain ingredients to reduce noticeable inconsistencies came at a time before process control was a known science. For example, hops were originally added to beer being shipped from England to India (hence the name India Pale Ale or IPA). Now, that practice didn't survive because of quality control - it has survived because people like the taste of IPAs and there is demand in the market for that flavor profile.
Consumers don't think of skill of production when rating beers or whiskeys; they judge only the resulting flavor profile and are influenced by contextual clues such as age statements or 'hand made batch numbered artisan spirit' promises.
Craft production peaks at a higher quality than any continuous production, I think is what you're trying to say? Because obviously, those who fail to do it correctly or consistently are still engaged in "craft production".
If we take this a little further though, part of craft production is the curation; being willing to dump batches that don't meet your quality standard.
Any producer who knowingly ships product below their quality standard is no longer engaded an artisan production.
Unless this is the 'No true Scotsman' fallacy...
Agreed, IPA is a no-brainer beer without subtlety. If you put enough hops in sewer water it'll taste like an IPA but that doesn't mean making a pilsner is rocket surgery.
And as long as I am ranting on IPA, I can't wait for the current craze for them to be over. A few years ago when I would ask the waitress what beers they have on tap she'd rattle off 8 wheat beers. (Seriously, one wheat beer in the summer is plenty and Bell's Oberon is a pleasantly inconsistent choice.) Now it's half a dozen IPAs. I have a suggestion to the bars and brewers for the next beer fad: an old world artisinal classic - lager.
I miss the days of a good mild or bitter with porters and stouts thrown in the mix.
It's still really good though.
"Oh yeah we got lots of stuff on tap. We got Bud, Bud Light, Miller, Miller Lite, Busch, Busch Light, Michelob, Michelob Light... oh I forgot: Coors Light, too!"
Frankly I'm always ready for an IPA the recipe for which is "sewer water + hops".
And the off-flavors aren't a by-product of the size of the producer. I work in the industry doing quality control at the same company[1] as another commenter, and we see inconsistencies with producers the size of a local brewpub to large producers that sell to 7+ states.
Using technology can help reduce inconsistencies, but the end goal it to never let the consumer taste a bad batch. It is cheaper to dump a bad batch than to ship it, as this may result in loss of customers.
Bigger producers know this and will more readily dump a bad batch than a smaller producer.
Lastly, I have seen a producer that ships to 3 states have a manual brewing system, while a small neighborhood brewpub that just started distributing uses a fully automated system.
[1] www.gastrograph.com
On the one hand, if you find a product you like, who cares about the story behind it?
On the other hand, when some brands are charging an arm and a leg (like Pappy Van Winkle) as other, less expensive, brands made by the same people with the same equipment (like Buffalo Trace), then it might be worth it see what the difference is between the "high end" and "lower end" brands.
I did a blind taste test and found I liked the mid range whiskey the best.
0 - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kentucky_Bourbon_Distillers
Bitter and woody notes are important balances in higher quality bourbons, but are often perceived as negatives when doing comparative evaluation.
This is likely from your description, as the higher end bourbons tend to be wheated and lighter, but with a more prominent woody body from their longer barrel ageing.
Pepsi, being slightly sweeter, was preferred when participants took a single small sip for a taste test. However, when drinking an entire can, people were more likely to prefer the less-sweet Coke.
I've taken to opting for the glass-bottle varieties of both; whether it's the lack of aluminium traces in the soda, the use of sugar instead of high-fructose corn syrup, or me having opportunities to collect bottle caps as if I'm trying to make a living in a post-apocalyptic nuclear wasteland, I've found that to be much more enjoyable for whatever reason.
That all said, RC Cola is the superior beverage. ;)
I don't buy Bulleit expecting hand-crafted small-batch stuff; I buy it because it's a good product that's worth the price.
But, later: I may be totally wrong about this!
"Four Roses only recently began bringing their Bourbon back to the US. Aside from the Four Roses label, the distillery makes Bulleit Bourbon for Diageo." [1]
Four Roses has a standard Bourbon, Small Batch Bourbon, Single Barrel, and possibly one more. I was just wondering which one it was (Bulleit brags about "small batch" so it may be that one, in which case BevMo sells the Four Roses for more than the Bulleit re-brand).
[1] http://recenteats.blogspot.com/p/the-complete-list-of-americ...
Four Roses uses two different mash bills (i.e. proportion of grains) and five types of yeast to create ten different new make spirits, which they combine in different proportions for each of their products. Bulleit is probably a distinct combination. It may also be aged in a different warehouse or a different part of the same warehouse (which can have a surprisingly large effect). It may be aged in casks with more or less char than the casks used for the Four Roses products. It may be bottled at a different age. The blender also gets to taste all the mature casks and pick and choose which ones get combined to make the final product, and can create a different flavor profile just with that choice.
So rest assured, it's not just a "re-brand", even if it came from the same stills.
Sounds to me that these faux whiskeys are a great product with a plausible legend (that beats a white label saying industrial alcohol) and, scratch beneath the surface, but isn't fake really part of what America is?
I'm surprised MGP hasn't created its own brands or bought some existing ones, since their rye is a good product in its own right. They're missing an opportunity, though maybe they feel it's too much trouble to go into the retail side.
During the gold rush, sell picks and shovels. Lots of tech companies have the same model. With that model, MGP have production personnel and a few account managers. They don't have to pay for any marketing themselves, while they benefit from the full range of creative output of the American liquor industry. Some people want to buy whiskey that was made in New Mexico by hipsters like "Simeon Turley" and "Thomas Tate Tobin", while others want to buy whiskey made in Iowa by "small townsfolk".
By all accounts, MGP is doing just fine and dandy being a B2B seller, and supplying the current craft-distillery boom. They can do that with very little supply-chain risk and expense.
Their current position only becomes challenging if one or both of the following happen: 1) More industrial, B2B distillers enter the market, or more big-batch distillers devote resources to supplying the craft market; 2) the craft market goes bust, forcing a major demand shock onto MGP's supply. If #2 materializes, then MGP can sit on the excess inventory, and eventually bottle it as premium liquor.
(Fortunate?) Mismanagement. They wanted to make their own brand but contracted out all their old stock so the only thing they could sell now is very young ones unless one of the existing customers jumps ship.
I wonder whether their existing contracts prohibit that.
This sounds similar to how Reddit grew. It created a bunch of fake accounts until it didn't need to no more. Though there has been little outcry about that practice around here.
motherboard.vice.com/read/how-reddit-got-huge-tons-of-fake-accounts--2
There is some labor & R&D here that can't strictly be - ahem - distilled to dollars and cents.
The aging process however makes a huge difference; it accounts for probably most of the flavor of the whiskey. So there's definitely potential for bottlers to add value. Unfortunately, most of them probably don't, because the things that add value --- sourcing quality large barrels instead of small casks, aging carefully for a long time --- add cost and delay time to market.
We can all just hope that whiskey gets less popular and the prices come back down to sane levels.
Aberlour, Chivas, Glenlivet, Longmorn, Royal Salute (Chivas premium), Scapa, Ballantines, Laphroaig, Teachers.
So this is a situation not at all like the MGP product situation. Aberlour and Longmorn aren't selling the same distillate (although they probably source the same malt).
It's maybe a little tricky to see the entrepreneurial activity in Scotch whiskey at a distance, because there are so many silent distillery sites throughout the country. People gut and rehab mothballed distilleries rather than build new ones. But the Benromach distillery, for instance, is entirely new on the inside; and it was started by a Scotch retailer.
It's the bottled water business model, but swankier.
Even Hangar One, a favorite of mine, is at least half neutral grain spirit from industrial farms. Thankfully they re-distill it with pot-distilled grape vodka, which rounds it out (no rubbing alcohol flavor).
Vodka sucks, is the moral of that story.
The important part of vodka is what water they are adding to that ethanol. It's not "just water" in that case, though it may very well be tap water (which is fine if they have good tap water).
Priced cheap, maybe at 80 and 160 proof options (normal and hi-test). Filtered tap water added at the bottling plant, and proud of it!
Something like that; I'd sure as heck buy it.
Someone might make a business in importing or making such products to USA :)
The proprietor gives tours every Saturday. It's a really interesting little place
A better example is hotdog rolls. The supermarket brand is usually 20% less and literally sits next to the "name" brand in your area. The Bimbo/Weston/Freihoffers/etc hotdog rolls are literally the same thing, deliveried by the same guy and baked in the same place!
See: http://www.bimbobakeriesusa.com/our_brands/
Although, companies like Vlassic are now shipping pickled vegetables in jars that resemble mason jars to look like the more artisanal products.
So, is Green Giant doing the same thing if the same farmer/field/canning facility supplies peas to generic/supermarket brands?
Look, for example, at http://templetonrye.com/wp-content/themes/Templeton-Rye/docs... which is linked in the article.
> At Templeton Rye, we’re proud to say we use our own proprietary yeast culture propagated in-house and developed exclusively for whiskey production.
That's entirely deceptive. It's as if Whole Foods resold Green Giant products saying "grown with our family's heirloom seeds!"