One of the core assumptions of Rails is having a database. A lot of it is focused on turning HTTP requests into SQL requests, and turning SQL responses into HTML. Which is fine; that's what a lot of web stuff is, and it's fine for that. But it's not the only thing that happens in the world.
I've TDDed systems that are not locked in intimate embraces with databases, and TDD is much easier and more pleasant there. On one project we did like that, we ended up with 40k lines of test (and a similar amount of production code) that ran in a few seconds. It was the most pleasant development experience of my career, and TDD was no problem there.