Any "big site" will use an opcode cacher like XCache or APC to avoid reloading .php files from disk on every request.
"Pure" PHP is a pretty fast language when benchmarked, but PHP frameworks tend to benchmark poorly, and I've always assumed that the overhead incurred by PHP's execution model is the culprit -- essentially, PHP was written with assumptions about How Dynamic Web Sites Work that made sense in the late '90s but really suck when every request is hitting a front controller and being dispatched through a router. Is this not the case?