The vast majority of airports are non-towered. The playa is about as perfect a surface to land on as you can imagine. The main difficulty is figuring out how far you are above the ground, but if you set up a proper approach, it doesn't really matter.

They do take a bunch of water trucks out there and spray down the dust to "harden" the runway before the event, so it should be marginally better than landing on bare desert.

If you're interested flying out there contact some pilots who go yearly and they'll give you the run-down :)