I personally like apple's recent approach to the scrollbar. Hiding it when not in use minimizes distraction. It's very easy to tell how long a single content page article is without needing the scrollbar to persist on the window.
If anyone has a suggestion, shoot. I went so far as looking for a hotkey for toggling scrollbar display (which I still think would be a good idea), but couldn't find anything. For the record, I'm using Synergy to control mouse/keyboard from a Ubuntu box with a MBP slave machine.
Horizontal scrolling with the mouse wheel is done by moving the mouse wheel with the shift key down.
Note that just touching the trackpad with two fingers, as if you're about to scroll, also brings up both scrollbars.
Very frustrating.