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does anyvite not allow you to view the entire guestlist? i even registered, to no avail.

Uhm, that is the entire guest list. It's an open invitation so anyone can sign themselves up for the event.

for example, it says there's 20 guests, but i could only view 9 (it's now 30/21). caching issue?

All of those (+numbers) next to guest names means that they are bringing additional people, which is added into the tally of total guests.