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Sorry, but I only made it halfway because I had to squint to read the text. More contrast would be nice.

Fix with your browser's style inspector or if you can access a javascript console:

document.getElementsByClassName('paragraph')[1].style.color = '#000000 !important'

I find alternate maps like this fascinating. You really don't need to bother with much of the description though - the maps speak for themselves!

How would I do this on Chrome? Thanks.

Right click -> Inspect Element -> click Console (right most tab) -> paste code and press return.