Something Dan does not observe in his article (perhaps Jamie does elsewhere? edit: or even Dan elsewhere) is that the same problem which makes the memory latency benchmark unrealistic (or at least misleading) often impacts hash table lookup benchmarks as mentioned at https://github.com/c-blake/bu/blob/main/doc/memlat.md and probably many other benchmarks. Essentially, CPU work prediction/speculative execution has become so good that much care is often required to measure latency rather than reciprocal throughput. This all started in the 1990s (or probably earlier with Cray), but I guess there's been an ongoing educational failure/oversimplification tendency.
Of course, throughput at one "level of work" is often latency at a higher level (like command-to-command execution, for example). So, "what matters" might be throughput or "latency". It all depends. :-) People often fiddle with such semantics to market methods, products, ideas, ... and marketing is often at cross purposes with understanding.