What's pretentious about them? They express a distinctive rhythm in written English. What's the the punctuation you would use instead?
I don't understand the celebration of ignorance myself. There are lots of things I don't know how to do or how to use, but I'd never dream of complaining because somebody else does.
Otherwise, I see people just use a regular dash a lot. I love the em dash myself, but of course stopped using it so I won't get accused of AI (which is sad). It's easy to type, at least on a Mac.
I mean, make the case em-dashes are overused and used lazily, I'm right there with you. I just don't see the pretense.