I'll note that not all segments of a proof are equally interesting. Many steps, perhaps even most when it comes to proofs about programs, are "obvious". I find that tactic-based proofs tend to be more legible than providing very explicit proof objects directly, because it allows the obvious but tedious details to be elided. What you are left with are just the most important high-level steps that the automation couldn't infer (or which we just don't wish to delegate). Things like "induct according to this scheme after generalizing this variable" or "first prove this auxiliary lemma" or "apply this inverse function to both sides so that they cancel".

I'd also argue that automation is essential to practical proof engineering. It make the proofs less brittle to minor changes and therefore more maintainable.

Edit: a couple more thoughts. First, there is nothing stopping you from defining proof objects directly in Lean without tactics. That flexibility is quite nice -- you can automate as much or as little as you like. Of course, in practice, people almost always use tactics. Second, I use the ACL2 prover quite a bit, which is not tactic-based. Instead, you give high-level "hints" that steer the aggressively-automated prover. Funny enough, I have colleagues that look at Lean proofs and say "these proofs are so verbose, how does anyone understand them!".