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They hardcode DNS servers into the TV. You need a firewall in front of the pihole intercepting that traffic, I use OpenWrt.

I nat all my dns traffic to the pihole, but looking at the logs my lg tv is using the dhcp provided ones.

Of course DOH would break that but I don't get the feeling it's bypassing it.

Given how cheap screens are, I'm puzzled as to why keeping a smart-ass TV is worth this effort?

I have that setup for my home network regardless. And my TV is the original C1 OLED, nothing compared when I got it. I wouldn't buy LG today.

Because all TVs are like this. There are no big non-smart screens on the market.