Designing a backyard deck for my house
blog.cosmin.cloud
blog.cosmin.cloud
If a concrete truck can reach the spot, that's the easiest.
This video shows a mud mixer in action around the 25 minute mark.
EDIT: kids, don't pour fuel into a generator right along a creekside without a funnel or care for the enviroment (~25 minute mark of that video)
For anyone else reading this considering taking on a deck and digging footings, the best approach with the holes if you don’t have access to a skid steer or excavator with an auger attachment, is to rent a towable earth auger like this:
https://www.unitedrentals.com/marketplace/equipment/lawn-lan...
You only need 1 person to operate and it’s much easier than 2 person because it doesn’t transfer any horizontal load / leverage into the operator so you can just focus on lowering the auger and raising it up. Much safer if you hit a root or rock too.
If you’re brave though you can just dig it by hand though. Everyone should dig some 4’ deck footings or shovel 3/4” clear stone all day at least once (good for drainage and preventing mud under the deck) so its easier to see and appreciate how great working on a computer daily really is.
Good job
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Technical_drawing_tool
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/French_curve is one of my favorites - any complicated curve you like, essentially, as a template tool, or you can use a flat spline: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flat_spline (you might be familiar with splines as a concept from 3d rendering)
PS if you've ever wondered how they made such wonderfully perfect dotted lines... sometimes they "cheated", and similar versions exist with mechanical pencils: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Dotted_Line_Tool_from_the...
Before doing myself, I did not know just how much work it is. It looked so simple. But it took me many weekends over a few months. Digging holes for concrete feet. Mixing concrete (I found its easy to do in a wheelbarrow) and pouring. Measuring (buy a laser level!). Cutting the posts. Then beams and joists. Noticing the wood I bought was not the same thickness everywhere (I thought my post height was off, but the laser level and my cut was perfect, the beams were not). Lastly just the decking was almost 1000 screws.
I might be totally wrong but I think I'm the UK you'd be allowed to just build a deck. Unless it was high enough to overlook your neighbours.
If you build without a permit, the village will not allow you to sell the house (each sale has to have a village inspection) until you _tear down_ and redo the work with a permit.
So it's a lot more controlled than other places and they can enforce it by tying up the sale.
1. Inspectors and authorities will act against your non-codeworthy plans and builds; maybe today, maybe tomorrow, maybe after a few years. Perhaps they'll level a fine, perhaps they'll order the complete demolition of it by their own appointed workers or contractors, at your own expense.
2. Insurers will never pay out for damages caused to or by your non-codeworthy builds. It is the perfect excuse for them to not pay out. It doesn't matter whether your design has qualities that you can demonstrate are equal or superior to officially recognized standards, you lose.
3. If someone is injured or dies on your non-codeworthy project, you'll fail a ton of personal injury and other legal challenges at your own expense.
The trees are a flowering pear and a flowering cherry, so I'm hoping not too much stuff falls on the deck. We had a crab apple tree before which is dying now, which is why we planted these trees 2 years ago. They're each supposed to grow up to 20 to 25 foot tall, with a 20 foot spread ...
I might have to figure out if I cut them down now and restart, or do it later when it becomes a problem and restart then ... I might just let them grow and figure out how to deal with the problems later ...