It wants to supply the maximum power possible as you don't want a device which can charge faster stuck at a lower rate, so it wants to renegotiate with the sink, and the lazy way to do that is a full reset.
I've considered just getting a bunch of 65W USB-C buck converters and DIY one.
Literally nothing inside it uses that voltage, so it'll just get downconverted to the single-digit voltages the chips actually need.
You reeeeeeally don't want to do that. Cable inductance is a big deal, among other issues. You want the main DC-DC regulators on the board, usually right at the load, for the main loads. Most of the PSU bulk is for dealing with mains itself: handling 50/60Hz or mains isolation is just physically large. Getting in secondary 20V DC (or so) from a single connector and then regulating it down on board is pretty much the ideal solution.
(I can't even begin to comprehend the horrors of a USB-PD negotiation involving multiple voltages. It's already the worst standard I've ever had to deal with.* Don't make it worse!)
(* Not hyperbole, it is truly, truly awful. At least things like 60601 are bad because, you know, they're covering lots of stuff like lifesaving medical devices. USB-PD is... holy hell, it is just bad.)
Yeah but usually you don't have to deal with that yourself but have some sort of chipset that handles all the USB-C PD and, optionally, even data-lane muxing stuff.
Lenovo have some,but sometimes require adapter cards. And a few of the Chinese N150 units will take PD power
It's great for hot swapping and more portable than a laptop.