> we would all be writing purely semantic html with completely orthogonal and swappable css. And today literally no one designs web sites that way - html today is mostly specific to presentation
I think of HTML + CSS as the presentation layer now, and the data lives in your e.g. database and Markdown files, so the data and its presentation are still separate enough.
The idea of just swapping out the CSS to completely restyle a complex site is nice, but people need to accept this hasn't worked out (and not because devs are bad at CSS) and move on.
It would avoid the whole mess of block vs table vs float vs flexbox vs grid (and also absolute vs relative vs fixed) positioning.
Basically, it feels like 90% of CSS is it trying to fix its past layout mistakes & limitations.
> completely orthogonal and swappable css.
You're talking about having a single CSS and HTML page for multiple layouts, there aren't the same thing at all.