Umami isn't half bad self hosted. Been using it with Docker Compose for a few years now on a LEB and it's working great.
https://github.com/th0th/poeticmetric
Looks interesting but haven't delved in it too much. I do like how I can create specific analytic tracking events without worrying too much about ad blockers but that's hardly unique to Umami.
There's also another interesting analytics open source project whose name I am forgetting. It was written in C or something and was efficient enough to allow free usage or self hosted, it was a simple hit counter I believe.