Is software engineering still a craft?

AI, like other forms of automation, is part of a general optimization trajectory which exists due to economic growth incentives. Like furniture makers and masons, the "craft" of knowledge workers will too atrophy and be largely discarded. However, there are still artisans. If you want to be a code artisan -- I do -- make the choices you can to embody it where you can. You might find ultimately that your refuge for such interest is in personal projects.

I usually stop reading any article that brings up the dopamine hits in short timescale iteration loops (or lack thereof). We're professionals, we have to detach ourselves from that part of our brains when we think at day, month, year, or career timescales.

Forget professionalism, learning to deprioritize Type I fun for other goals is a childhood development.

I'm not saying deliberately suffer. Maybe just don't chase the dragon through programming, right?

An engineering field either becomes a science or remains a fringe

no