Total price, 1600 euros. So close to the magical 100 euros per kWh. Driving it with some interesting combinations of Raspberry PI's and serial interfaces and custom written Go code, but it works... :)
Total price, 1600 euros. So close to the magical 100 euros per kWh. Driving it with some interesting combinations of Raspberry PI's and serial interfaces and custom written Go code, but it works... :)
Then bought a 16kwh battery for ~£1500, installation was plugging in a positive, negative and ethernet cable and configuring the inverter to use the battery. (if my home insnurer is reading this, I had an electrician friend double check while helping with some other work)
Definitely recommended for anyone who likes tinkering, thousands cheaper than installer pricing.
Willing and allowed. In some countries it can only be done by certified electricians.
You can't and you will lose in court.
I'm pretty sure there is a clause, which states that you have to inform if you have and/or are not allowed to have fire loads, or anything that could cause a fire, or make it worse, or something along the lines in legalese. These formulations are always there because of people hoarding fuel in the basement, for example, or O2 Tank, or whatever. They are formulated in the most generic way possible to catch anything you do "wrong". Failing to follow such clauses, also when not explicitly stated, is dropping your obligations in the contract. And then there will be a clause that of course says, that not following the contract from your side, also exempts the company of paying.
Note also there are clauses that are very softly specified, like "use rooms for the intended purpose" which may be a problem if you store idk, paint in the garage, which may be flammable, in which case a fire in the garage will not be (at least fully) covered.
Ask me how I know...
It "may" not be permitted, but if you live in a collection of shacks in rural Colorado that were themselves -already- completely un-permitted then you might decide that it's best to just do the work yourself.
I got the "trick" recommended to do the things yourself, then call a certified guy, and say "look, I contracted a guy, I had no idea, he came did everything, but I got a bad vibe, I would like you check the whole installation". But it also does not really work, they will come with a contract, where you are enforced to contract them to correct any findings. And boy they will find things then...
It’s been crazy seeing the western home storage market selling systems with the €/kWh being more expensive than buying a BEV. And that includes a car.
https://www.docanpower.com/eu-stock/zz-48kwh-50kwh-51-2v-942...
You'll encounter stuff like: manual says use RS485 port on Battery for GroWatt inverter → need to use CAN port on Battery. Meter Port (RS485 [serial] over RJ45) wiring on GroWatt is unknown (A: white orange / B: white blue, cross them over). Dinky RS485 serial → USB converter needs a 120ohm resistor between pins for line termination. Growatt meter port expects a SDM630 meter, not a DTSU666 (hardcoded), so vibe code another emulator. DIP switches for RS232 connection need to be both on the ON position (undocumented). CH340 USB→serial converter for RS232 does not work, but one with a Prolific chip does. Etc. etc. etc :)
Oh, and the biggest one... I was expecting to be able to just send a command, 'charge at 500watts', now... 'discharge at 2000watts'. But no. You have to emulate a power meter and the inverter will try to bring the net power to 0. Fun! :)
What protocol is it speaking? I've seen some of the more mainstream models call out that they use Modbus but all the cheap import models either might use Modbus or some custom protocol you have to reverse engineer or hope someone else did.
Feel you have more unknowns on the safety front? vs. the expensive off-the-shelf. [in the USA, it’d also be “fewer names to sue” in that unlikely tragedy of combustion in home, but no euro/kWh targets there]
This was indeed my greatest concern. However the battery came with pre-crimped very solid DC wires, and nice push connectors for the battery itself. The battery also has an integrated DC breaker (great!).
The system runs 3KW max, so I just added an additional breaker (with RCD integrated) in the conduit box. In NL this is something a DIY-home owner easily can do themselves :) (just use the right solid/flex stranded cabling for the connectors, etc...)
I'm not interfacing with a grid, and there are already code issues with my places- I'd probably feel different if I could get insurance on my place.
Cheap chinese tooling and youtube (plus pretty good general literacy) go a long way in this world.
And FWIW, I live in the US west and am way more worried about fire coming from outside than from the batteries.
On a tangent, I’m amazed at how bad most random crimps I see on the internet are. Also, the number of people who debate the use of solder on crimps without discussing potential issues with said solder is too high.
LFP batteries are much safer than past chemistries, but this statement is way too broad.
High power batteries are always more dangerous than something like a stack of wood, because batteries will gladly dump their entire energy capacity very rapidly into a short.
Even if the battery itself [mostly] won't self-immolate, the entire installation can be a fire hazard.
Treat them with proper respect.