I've tried to read it two times already, and never got past page 100 out of utter boredom. I will try one more time, but some books are not for everyone.
Like you, I could never get past a few chapters ... but it all clicked for me when I read the final chapter first. The final chapter is very readable, very fun, and very risque ... and to me it was a surprising read, it's not what I expected at all from an Edwardian Dubliner.
Having read the final chapter, I was much more motivated to read the rest ... I wanted to read more of what this writer was up to.