I think it's an amazing experiment.
You can look at the PyTorch code base and understand a small local function instantly, but if I would have a task to have a deep understanding of either PyTorch with all kernel code and low level code, whole CUDA code base + LLVM compilation code or Tinygrad I would pick Tinygrad in an instant.
The code looks hard because what it is doing is hard, but all its layers can be debugged.