It turns out that in my case it wasn't TCP_NODELAY - my backend is written in go, and go sets TCP_NODELAY by default!
But I still found the article - and in particular Nagle's acknowledgement of the issues! - to be interesting.
There's a discussion from two years ago here: https://news.ycombinator.com/item?id=40310896 - but I figured it'd been long enough that others might be interested in giving this a read too.