Slow cable Internet and 120v residential electricity are two more examples. I fortunately have fiber now, but I'll be stuck dreaming of 240v outlets and appliances for the rest of my life.
EU also mandates dedicated circuits for big appliances, so there is no difference in practice.
The two things I can think of are electric kettle and a raclette machine.
Tools are mostly battery powered those days. A home workshop would most likely be wired in 240 or three phases anyways.
What else are you missing?
An electric tea kettle that didn't take an hour to warm up would be very nice.
My well pump runs on 120v, and when the motor kicks in the whole house knows.
240v has lower voltage drop over distances, puts off less heat due to lower amperage for the same wattage, and since we're dreaming, we could switch over to a sane plug design like Type F or G instead of A and B.
I've been using electric kettles in north america and whilst they take longer, we're talking 5 minutes not an hour.
Some hyperbole can be appropriate but you're just being disingenuous here, or you've never actually used a kettle.
My desktop PC uses about 600W running at full tilt. It can take 120V or 240V. At 120V, it will pull 5A to run its 600W load. At 240V, it'll only use 2.5A. This means for the same gauge of wire, it'll experience less resistive losses and thus be cooler and less prone to overheating.
You wouldn't change the outlet to a higher amperage outlet, you'd just change to the 240V equivalent of that same amperage rating. For the US, it looks pretty much the same as a regular wall outlet but has the blades horizontal instead of vertical. Something like this:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-15-Amp-250-V-NEMA-6-15R-...
Well yes, but usually the whole point of switching to 240V is to get more power than what 120V can supply. The people complaining about electric kettles being “slow” in the US compared to the EU would still be complaining if those kettles always pulled the same number of Watts on both 120V and 240V, because it's the Watts that determine how fast the water heats up. The amperage is therefore probably going to be at minimum approximately the same in that case — and probably higher if you're doing something more intensive (and therefore requiring more current) with that new 240V outlet than just running an electric kettle (like running a stove or a clothes dryer or an air conditioner or an electric car charger or a rack of 10+ of those 600W-PSU-laden computers — hence those usually getting beefier 20A+ circuits while everything else in a house might be 15A).
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