So the battery “registration” resets this adaptation, just like you’re supposed to reset the adaptation on a UPS when you change the batteries. Needing an OBD tool is slightly annoying, but does not feel like a vendor-locking scenario.
With brake on it's not uncommon for them to stick to the brake disk coz of rust + humidity, at best it will be PITA to get it moving again, at worst it will do some damage.
Also, BMW puts the battery in the trunk for a reason. It's for weight distribution. So I'll le them get away with it.
There are some hardware workarounds in some cases like spoofing auth with a 3rd party device permanently attached to the CANBUS, or desoldering and manipulating the chips used by the ECU for storage, but it's a massive hassle.
The cheapest OBD-II reader one can use with the Hyundai, per TFA, is ~$800, and Hyundai's required-for-this-job software subscription is $60/week.
Needing tools is fine, but the cost is ballooning, and the ladder for starting work at home, and learning, is being pulled up.
Sure, one needs tools
My VW Passat hybrid did not even let me change the cooling fluid myself because it is also used to cool the battery. In fact anything remotely tied to the high voltage battery is not user serviceable, and dealers are only allowed to replace instead of repair.
And this car is from 2015 so the enshittification started there already.
I would want to see a bit of data before concluding that it is useless to do that.