It's actually funny, the lack of styling actually makes consuming the info alot easier.
I do not think that word means what you think it means
The objective improvements from css here include: shorter lines are easier to read (per multiple legibility studies), the styling distinguishes navigation and secondary site elements from the main content (without css you get a half screen of navigation links), and the visual importance of in-page anchor links is reduced.
The font is bigger, the lines are shorter, the navigation doesn't take half the page. The only thing worse would be the contrast but it's not that bad.
I prefer having a quiet single color background and being able to dictate how wide is the text I am reading than being limited by the website owner's choice. But that is also maybe just me.