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Seems to be the case that the conversion to fiat is the part that is difficult to do while staying anonymous

As long as one takes moderate measures to stay anonymous on the network level, an exchange that is P2P or doesn't force KYC can be used to convert. There are many of them out there.

Fees may be higher is a note.

But without p2p there is greater risk of scam?

You can do it on Kraken just fine. As long as you're ok paying taxes on it (since Kraken is KYC), you're still shielding the source of the funds, which is the primary utility of Monero.

Or to put it another way, it's good for "money laundering", but not "tax evasion".

Why would Kraken just accept 100K worth of Monero coming in and sent out as fiat to a bank account ?

cuz they get their cut and there is nothing anyone can do to unmask that transfer or prove that it's, fundamentally, fraudulent.

IRS or CRA is getting their cut, so it's the regulator or the FBI's problem

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