What does "understanding a sunrise" mean though? Arguments like this end up resting on semantics or tautology, 100% of the time. Arguments of the form "what AI is really doing" likewise fail because we don't know what real brains are "really" doing either.
I mean, if we knew how to model human language/reasoning/whatever we'd just do that. We don't, and we can't. The AI boosters are betting that whatever it is (that we don't understand!) is an emergent property of enough compute power and that all we need to do is keep cranking the data center construction engine. The AI pessimists, you among them, are mostly just arguing from ludditism: "this can't possibly work because I don't understand how it can".
Who the hell knows, basically. We're at an interesting moment where technology and the theory behind it are hitting the wall at the same time. That's really rare[1], generally you know how something works and applying it just a question of figuring out how to build a machine.
[1] Another example might be some of the chemistry fumbling going on at the start of the industrial revolution. We knew how to smelt and cast metals at crazy scales well before we knew what was actually happening. Stuff like that.